Bear Grylls Gear

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Metolius Alpine Pas Vs Pas 22

6 min read

It is the same bulk as the Slyde and weights slightly less at 128g (not inc. Karabiner). Where the Adjust differs from the Slyde is the attachment point at both ends and the price. The Adjust has a loop that is larks footed to the harness and the plate is stopped from moving up the back bar on the karabiner by a rubber ring.

We expect this to be one of the most durable anchor chains out there. This is an adjustable belay equalising system – we’ve been testing it for a while now and found it very useful. It has been most useful for rock climbing as it was a little more awkward to use with gloves on. It just carry’s on your torso like a sling and is reasonably quick to set up. It sounds a little complicated but it’s quite simple – we’ve produced a video on how to use it for our YouTube channel. The big difference is aid climbing daisy chains are considerably weaker.

I really rate this fully adjustable lanyard, and it’s cheap as chips. Climbing slings are long and dangly, and this can present a bit of a problem when trying to avoid them getting caught up in all your other gear. Draping them over one shoulder and around the neck is a common solution to this problem, but even more popular is the alpine quickdraw.

Product Reviews

Although you will often hear sport climbers calling personal anchor systems “daisy chains”, this isn’t correct. More advanced climbers will often use the climbing rope, quickdraws, or a basic dyneema sling or nylon sling to attach themselves to the anchor. These methods are safe, and have the advantage of not requiring specialsed tools. But for beginners and sport climbers, we recommend using a dedicated personal anchor system, because it is easier to adjust and harder to break. The Metolius PAS 22 is an innovative anchor attatchment sling which is similar to a dasiy chain except it uses individual sling loops in a chain link construction.

By the product made it to its final packaged it was hand checked by a half dozen people. I would envision Metolius could do something like that, but I dont know how their QA process is now so it’s impossible to say. You help support OutdoorGearLab’s product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. This is the most expensive anchor chain, but not by much. We think this was the first anchor chain, or it was at least the first one to gain popularity and launch the whole category. Unlike the other devices, the Petzl Connect Adjust isn’t made up of interlocking rings, but rather one strand of rope with a sliding adjuster, meaning it can be more minutely adjusted to whatever length you desire.

So you’re going to buy a half or twin rope ( ~8mm) and cut it up for a Purcell? Since most cordlette is static, and you’re looking for a dynamic answer. Surely its better even than a sling which is also static material.

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We tested 13 of the best ropes available on the market… Leading one of the stellar face pitches on Levitation 29, Eagle Wall, Red Rocks during a beautiful January day. A large selection of slings is essential to success on this route. Sorry, we don’t currently have any of those types of reviews for this product. This is for sport, of course (2 generally level-ish chains). Some of this gear might not be something everyone uses , but I would think most climbers expect 100% for new gear which isn’t unreasonable.

Some slings are made of a flat piece of webbing, while others are tubular in shape, which means they are thicker. All that said, I’ll still only take a personal anchor of any kind if I’m planning on rapelling off a big multi, or cleaning a bolted anchor — I think pretty much every other time, I’ll be clipping in with the rope anyway. If you use a nylon or dyneema for your personal anchor you simply avoid any situation that could produce a shock load on the device. Even if the nylon/dyneema wouldn’t fail when you fell on it the shock to your body would be severe when it caught you.

Is A daisy Chain The Same Thing As A Pas?

This system means the Petzl Connect Adjust Personal Anchor System is the most precise PAS in this roundup. If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.

These cord slings offer specific advantages to help you see past their extra weight, and regardless we would likely only carry one or a few , at most anyway. It should come as no surprise that the top performers for this category are the thinnest slings that have the lowest profile bar tacking. Once again, the Mammut Contact Sling, at a mere 8mm of width and featuring an innovative bar tacking pattern that is the lowest profile of all those tested, is the top performer.

@ Scott – sorry, should have been clearer in my response – I was referring to the statement about not going off belay. You see people do this quite a lot at the red, especially on steep sport routes and I have always thought that it was a bit lazy since it puts a lot of wear on the anchor rings / quicklinks / whatever. I use it and like because if I can reach the bolt or anchor I can clip in directly.

It comes with or without a screw gate, either way you need one. I liked this PAS device, mainly because it fitted neatly around my 32” waist. It has 5 useable loops which are double layered to provide 22kN strength rated slings. The end sling is a different colour so that you can identify which end the screw gate goes into, this could be important in low light abseils for exaple the time we had to do 5 abs from an ice route with just our phones for torches!

The main disadvantage is the fixed length with no adjustability. I bought mine in Decathlon and we have no price information for the UK. Since it’s made out of dynamic material which can hold a severe fall, the Petzl PAS eliminates the main danger of more traditional anchor chains. It’s incredibly easy to adjust to precisely the length you need, too, which our testers also liked. The Sterling Chain Reactor is very similar to the Metolius and Black Diamond personal anchoring systems, with multi, fully-rated loops sewn together. The main difference is the Sterling Chain Reactor is made of nylon, not dyneema.

In the end, however, these concerns are far outweighed by the ease of untying knots and the myriad of choices, not to mention the very reasonable price, which makes this the ideal choice for your anchor building needs. The Blue Water Titan Loop is technically stronger but this just feels more substantial, which is nice if it is your only connection to the anchor. At the same time it is relatively narrow, which makes it feel not too bulky.

By slinging a horn such as this one, a sling goes from simply extending the protection to providing the protection. The lower gorge of Smith Rock is a trad climbing paradise of basalt columns and cracks, here testing slings on lead of the hand crack Original Sin. Go out and climb with someone who knows what they’re doing and you’ll see what i mean. Unless you’re big-walling there really is no need for a PAS or daisy.

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