{"id":1182,"date":"2025-09-04T18:52:22","date_gmt":"2025-09-04T18:52:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/beargryllsgear.org\/?p=1182"},"modified":"2025-09-04T18:52:22","modified_gmt":"2025-09-04T18:52:22","slug":"atc-guide-vs-atc-alpine-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/beargryllsgear.org\/ro\/atc-guide-vs-atc-alpine-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Atc Guide Vs Atc Alpine Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide&rsquo;s hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. When belaying in &ldquo;guide mode,&rdquo; the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking.<\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/EhF6EvlR6Q8\" width=\"562\" height=\"310\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>ATC Guide este, de asemenea, pu\u021bin mai greu dec\u00e2t cel mai apropiat \u0219i cel mai popular concurent, Petzl Reverso, dar credem c\u0103 durabilitatea suplimentar\u0103 merit\u0103 ad\u0103ugarea a dou\u0103 zecimi de uncie. Dac\u0103 dori\u021bi o op\u021biune versatil\u0103 la un pre\u021b fantastic, aceasta este cea pe care o recomand\u0103m. Deoarece dispozitivul nu se blocheaz\u0103 automat, adic\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 suport de blocare, coarda trebuie s\u0103 fie men\u021binut\u0103 activ\u0103 \u00een permanen\u021b\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>Actually the new leader doesn&rsquo;t have to clip in at all to switch over when swinging leads. The second simply hands his belay device to the belayer who puts him on belay underneath the ATC Guide . When the new leader is about to leave the anchor and launch up the next pitch, he simply takes the ATC Guide with him when he goes. Two partners effectively swap belay devices all the way up a route and this saves a lot of unnecessary clipping-into and unclipping-from anchors. To lower the climber, loosen the grip on your guide hand slightly. Slowly move your brake hand back closer to your guide hand.<\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/nV45VICdsIY\" width=\"564\" height=\"317\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. 1 &ndash; Clip a locking carabiner to the &ldquo;ear&rdquo; of your rappel device. The &ldquo;passive&rdquo; Mammut Smart 2.0 &ndash; this device creates a pinch on the rope by rotating when the climber falls.<\/p>\n<p>De asemenea, ofer\u0103 o valoare fantastic\u0103 pentru oricine dore\u0219te aceste func\u021bii avansate. Dispozitivele de asigurare de tip tub sunt u\u0219or de utilizat cu o tehnic\u0103 de asigurare tradi\u021bional\u0103. Principalul lor dezavantaj este c\u0103 este necesar\u0103 o prindere ferm\u0103 pe firul de fr\u00e2n\u0103 al fr\u00e2nghiei \u00een permanen\u021b\u0103.<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_82_2 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-grey ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Cuprins<\/p>\n<label for=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-69e744cbd3c97\" class=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewbox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewbox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseprofile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/label><input type=\"checkbox\"  id=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-69e744cbd3c97\"  aria-label=\"Toggle\" \/><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/beargryllsgear.org\/ro\/atc-guide-vs-atc-alpine-guide\/#Climbing_Gear_Discussion_Post_A_Reply_To_%E2%80%9Cbd_Atc_Guide_Vs_Reverso%E2%80%9D\" >Climbing Gear Discussion Post A Reply To &ldquo;bd Atc Guide Vs Reverso&rdquo;<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/beargryllsgear.org\/ro\/atc-guide-vs-atc-alpine-guide\/#Conclusion_Black_Diamond_Atc_Guide_Vs_Petzl_Reverso_4\" >Concluzie: Black Diamond Atc Guide vs Petzl Reverso 4<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Climbing_Gear_Discussion_Post_A_Reply_To_%E2%80%9Cbd_Atc_Guide_Vs_Reverso%E2%80%9D\"><\/span>Climbing Gear Discussion Post A Reply To &ldquo;bd Atc Guide Vs Reverso&rdquo;<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>When it comes to something you&rsquo;re likely to carry on your harness, the Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. The BD ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk. Among the active assist braking devices, the Mad Rock Lifeguard is a decent alternative for those that like to multi-pitch climb with a GriGri.<\/p>\n<p>Because of this great design, its advantages include the smoothest paying out of slack of any device that adds redundancy to the belay. It is also designed in a way that it cannot be loaded backward, so there is no need to continually check for little hand and climber icons. For climbers on a budget, and especially those who participate in a wide variety of climbing disciplines, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. This device offers the same functions as simple tube devices for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for belaying followers directly from an anchor. It also easily accommodates two strands of rope, making it ideal for rappelling. Over the past 12 years, we&rsquo;ve tested over 26 different individual models, with 17 choices highlighted in our updated overview.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Conclusion_Black_Diamond_Atc_Guide_Vs_Petzl_Reverso_4\"><\/span>Concluzie: Black Diamond Atc Guide vs Petzl Reverso 4<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types of accidents and are often easily preventable. 1 &ndash; Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on a bight as a backup knot in the brake strand of the rope. Typically, this technique is used to lower someone a short distance, not the entire length of a pitch. If you want to lower your second a very long way, a better setup may be to redirect the brake strand rather than the load strand. Environmental Reponsibility Leave No Trace principles are fundamental to our program, and we encourage all who climb and trek with us to understand proper wilderness practices. We help facilitate this effort by passing on Leave No Trace training and literature to every Alpine Ascents climber.<\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/EhF6EvlR6Q8\" width=\"562\" height=\"313\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>Performan\u021ba remarcabil\u0103 a dispozitivelor de fr\u00e2nare asistat\u0103 vine de la GriGri. Acesta coboar\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 probleme \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 tres\u0103riri, \u00een mare parte datorit\u0103 absen\u021bei unui mecanism antipanic\u0103. GriGri+, Camp Matik \u0219i Edelrid Eddy au toate p\u00e2rghii antipanic\u0103. Dac\u0103 trage\u021bi prea mult de p\u00e2rghie, unitatea se blocheaz\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>Aparatul este ideal pentru \u00eencep\u0103tori, deoarece este potrivit \u0219i pentru bugete mici. Acesta dovede\u0219te o manevrabilitate bun\u0103 \u0219i poate convinge prin robuste\u021be. Din acest motiv, ATC Guide de la Black Diamond nu este potrivit pentru alpinism sportiv. Foarte bun Dup\u0103 ce am folosit Petzl Reverso timp de c\u00e2\u021biva ani, c\u0103utam ceva cu o manevrare mai lin\u0103 a corzii. Reverso este un dispozitiv de asigurare bun, dar cu fr\u00e2nghii mai vechi \u0219i mai groase ar putea fi o adev\u0103rat\u0103 b\u0103taie de cap pentru a o introduce prin dispozitiv.<\/p>\n<p>\u00cen cazul \u00een care asiguratorul este lovit de o piatr\u0103, se love\u0219te de perete sau coarda \u00eei scap\u0103 cumva din m\u00e2n\u0103, alpinistul care cade se va lovi de punte \u0219i va putea suferi r\u0103ni. Intr\u0103 \u00een scen\u0103 noul Wild Country Revo, care rezolv\u0103 aceast\u0103 problem\u0103 prin ad\u0103ugarea unui mecanism de blocare automat\u0103 care opre\u0219te coarda dac\u0103 aceasta se mi\u0219c\u0103 prin dispozitiv mai repede de 4m\/s. Acesta face acest lucru prin utilizarea unui volant de dezechilibru \u00een interior care se combin\u0103 cu for\u021bele centrifuge pentru a declan\u0219a mecanismul de blocare peste anumite viteze. Partea genial\u0103 este c\u0103 dispozitivul func\u021bioneaz\u0103 exact ca un simplu tub, iar cel care \u00eel asigur\u0103 folose\u0219te aceea\u0219i tehnic\u0103 simpl\u0103 de asigurare. Revo nu ajut\u0103 \u00een niciun fel la fr\u00e2nare, ci ofer\u0103 pur \u0219i simplu o rezerv\u0103 de urgen\u021b\u0103, fiind primul dispozitiv de care avem cuno\u0219tin\u021b\u0103 care func\u021bioneaz\u0103 \u00een acest mod.<\/p>\n<p>Like most of us, his passion was kindled in the climbing gym but soon carried him outside after beholding the mighty Diamond on Longs Peak and deciding he needed to climb it. He has climbed large alpine routes and big walls all around the world, from Peru to Alaska to Mexico to the Alps. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). For most folks, this amount isn&rsquo;t a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it&rsquo;s not an insignificant difference.<\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/8PKEIHWg-zQ\" width=\"567\" height=\"311\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>Auto-blocking devices, an evolution from plaquettes or &ldquo;magic plates&rdquo; previously used mostly by savvy climbing guides to manage multiple clients, absolutely rule. They&rsquo;re exponentially more efficient, addictively so (I haven&rsquo;t used a non-auto-blocker on a multi-pitch climb in over a decade). They rappel and feed-out rope to the leader like normal, but, when configured correctly, they automatically lock-down if the second falls. In this way is possible to provide a protection to either one seconding climber, as well as to two seconding climbers simultaneously. For example, for a progress of a three-man team represents the simultaneous progress of two second climbers significant saving of time.<\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/KM5c9wlTReo\" width=\"568\" height=\"316\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>Dac\u0103 sunte\u021bi \u00een c\u0103utarea unui tub clasic f\u0103r\u0103 func\u021bie autotube, ATC Guide de la Black Diamond este cea mai bun\u0103 alegere. Fiind un dispozitiv de asigurare dinamic, tubul este ideal pentru c\u0103\u021b\u0103ratul \u00een teren alpin, precum \u0219i pe traseele cu mai multe pante. Func\u021bionarea ATC Guide de la produc\u0103torul Black Diamond este simpl\u0103 \u0219i chiar foarte intuitiv\u0103.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide&rsquo;s hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. When belaying in &ldquo;guide mode,&rdquo; the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1182","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-climbing"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Atc Guide Vs Atc Alpine Guide | Beargryllsgear<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide&#039;s hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. 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