We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide’s hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. When belaying in “guide mode,” the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking.
The ATC Guide is also slightly heavier than its closest and most popular competition, the Petzl Reverso, but we think the extra durability is worth adding a couple tenths of an ounce. If you want a versatile option at a fantastic price, this is the one we recommend. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times.
Actually the new leader doesn’t have to clip in at all to switch over when swinging leads. The second simply hands his belay device to the belayer who puts him on belay underneath the ATC Guide . When the new leader is about to leave the anchor and launch up the next pitch, he simply takes the ATC Guide with him when he goes. Two partners effectively swap belay devices all the way up a route and this saves a lot of unnecessary clipping-into and unclipping-from anchors. To lower the climber, loosen the grip on your guide hand slightly. Slowly move your brake hand back closer to your guide hand.
Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. 1 – Clip a locking carabiner to the “ear” of your rappel device. The “passive” Mammut Smart 2.0 – this device creates a pinch on the rope by rotating when the climber falls.
It also provides a fantastic value for anyone who wants these advanced functions. Tube-style belay devices are easy to operate with a traditional belay technique. Their primary downside is that a firm grip is required on the brake strand of the rope at all times.
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Climbing Gear Discussion Post A Reply To “bd Atc Guide Vs Reverso”
When it comes to something you’re likely to carry on your harness, the Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. The BD ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk. Among the active assist braking devices, the Mad Rock Lifeguard is a decent alternative for those that like to multi-pitch climb with a GriGri.
Because of this great design, its advantages include the smoothest paying out of slack of any device that adds redundancy to the belay. It is also designed in a way that it cannot be loaded backward, so there is no need to continually check for little hand and climber icons. For climbers on a budget, and especially those who participate in a wide variety of climbing disciplines, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. This device offers the same functions as simple tube devices for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for belaying followers directly from an anchor. It also easily accommodates two strands of rope, making it ideal for rappelling. Over the past 12 years, we’ve tested over 26 different individual models, with 17 choices highlighted in our updated review.
Conclusion: Black Diamond Atc Guide Vs Petzl Reverso 4
Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types of accidents and are often easily preventable. 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on a bight as a backup knot in the brake strand of the rope. Typically, this technique is used to lower someone a short distance, not the entire length of a pitch. If you want to lower your second a very long way, a better setup may be to redirect the brake strand rather than the load strand. Environmental Reponsibility Leave No Trace principles are fundamental to our program, and we encourage all who climb and trek with us to understand proper wilderness practices. We help facilitate this effort by passing on Leave No Trace training and literature to every Alpine Ascents climber.
The standout performance from assisted braking devices comes from the GriGri. It lowers smoothly and jerk free, largely due to the absence of an anti-panic mechanism. The GriGri+, Camp Matik, and Edelrid Eddy all have anti-panic levers. If you pull back too far on the lever, the unit locks up.
The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Very good After using the Petzl Reverso for a couple of years I was looking for something with smoother rope handling. The reverso is a fine belay device but with older, thicker ropes it could be a real hassle to feed it through the device.
If the belayer is hit by a rock, slammed into the wall, or the rope somehow slips out of their grip, a falling climber will hit the deck and potentially sustain injury. Enter the new Wild Country Revo, which solves this issue by adding an automatic locking mechanism that stops the rope if it moves through the device faster than 4m/s. It does so by using an out-of-balance flywheel on the inside that combines with centrifugal forces to trigger the locking mechanism above certain speeds. The brilliance is that the device functions exactly like a simple tube, and the belayer uses the same simple belay technique. The Revo does not in any way assist with braking but simply provides an emergency backup, the first device that we are aware of that works in this manner.
Like most of us, his passion was kindled in the climbing gym but soon carried him outside after beholding the mighty Diamond on Longs Peak and deciding he needed to climb it. He has climbed large alpine routes and big walls all around the world, from Peru to Alaska to Mexico to the Alps. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). For most folks, this amount isn’t a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it’s not an insignificant difference.
Auto-blocking devices, an evolution from plaquettes or “magic plates” previously used mostly by savvy climbing guides to manage multiple clients, absolutely rule. They’re exponentially more efficient, addictively so (I haven’t used a non-auto-blocker on a multi-pitch climb in over a decade). They rappel and feed-out rope to the leader like normal, but, when configured correctly, they automatically lock-down if the second falls. In this way is possible to provide a protection to either one seconding climber, as well as to two seconding climbers simultaneously. For example, for a progress of a three-man team represents the simultaneous progress of two second climbers significant saving of time.
If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive.
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