19 Reasons To Never Climb The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is the world’s most iconic peak and needs little introduction. The summit stands at 4,478m and its perfect shape dominates the skyline. Climbing the Matterhorn is on the ‘must do’ list of both aspiring and experienced mountaineers alike. To stand on top of the Matterhorn is a worthy goal and a life-defining experience! At Mountain Tracks we have 20 years of experience on the mountain and a fantastic record of summit success.

The fact is, looking from Zermatt, the peak looks nothing short of terrifying and compared to most alpine peaks, the assent looks impossibly steep and uncompromising. The Matterhorn is the most easily recognised peak in the world. Isolated at the head of the Zermatt Valley, the perfectly shaped mountain needs little introduction and continues to top the ‘must do’ list of thousands of climbers who aspire to climb it each year. ACM Wealth is the wealth management team of Advisors Capital Management, LLC (“ACM”).

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Zermatt is an idyllic Swiss village surrounded by majestic peaks and great climbing. Our training climbs will get you prepared for climbing the Matterhorn as well as to acclimate properly. Alpine climbs in the Zermatt area include the famous Breithorn half-traverse, Pollux, the Rimpfischorn and rock climbing on the Riffelhorn which has long been a Matterhorn training area. To keep things flexible, the exact choice of training climbs will be chosen based on conditions. Climbing Matterhorn is not easy, both the descent and ascent are physically and technically demanding given the mixed terrain and the high altitude weather conditions. Though climbing Matterhorn is the primary goal of many climbers, climbing it is a difficult task.

If you need a little more convincing, take a look at these 19 reasons to never climb the Matterhorn. I was thrilled to have made it to the summit, but also aware that we had gone only half the way. The descent is often the most dangerous part of a climb, when weary bodies are more likely to make a mistake, as Mr. Whymper and his team discovered.

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If you’re looking for solitude, pick a different peak; the Alps are stacked with beautiful, lesser-known mountains. As for the length of the trip, the more time you can give yourself the better. The mountain is isolated and prone to quick changes in weather, and it can snow at any time of the year.

It involves an overnight at the Bivacco Bossi hut and a 7-hour hike to the summit. Another reason why you cannot climb Matterhorn without a guide is the equipment. You need to be guided to know the right stuff to climb the Matterhorn. In my opinion, the right set of boots is the essential equipment for climbing. Climbing Matterhorn without a guide is critical because when climbing, there is a route to take.

As mentioned above, the Hornli Ridge progressively dries out in the first part of the summer and usually comes into condition by early July. It then usually remains climbable – barring periods of adverse weather – until late August or early September. The Matterhorn is a big day out and you need to be moving efficiently. Therefore, if you are carrying a few extra pounds, then losing as much of this as possible in the run up to your trip will have a big effect on how much you enjoy the ascent.

The 6-day course provides an even higher probability of success than the 5-day course as it gives more time for acclimatization and training as well as more options for the summit day. Especially if you are 2 or more persons we recommend this program, since availability in the huts can become a limitation of flexibility for bigger groups. It was a long, painful descent, but the weather held and we regained the Hornli by 7 p.m. Over drinks that night, my guide confessed to hating this crowded mountain, having once witnessed a climber punch another in an argument over a fixed rope.

The picture shown above is the Matterhorn in summer, but clearly out of shape for climbing. The need for speed, the sustained nature of the climbing and scrambling, as well as the altitude all combine to make the Matterhorn a very athletic endeavor. Having rock climbing scrambling skills are also key, you must be sure on your feet! And of course, you must be acclimated before attempting such a climb above 14,000 ft. Participants should have some alpine mountaineering experience before the Matterhorn week, although being an expert climber is not a prerequisite.

The altitude, needed for speed, scrambling, and the sustained nature of the climbing makes the Matterhorn a very athletic endeavour. Climbing Matterhorn is easy for those with rock climbing experience but very exposed. With a guide, you can move together roped without an anchor for much of the route. The mountain is not an exceptional alpine to climb when attended with a guide. It requires physical shape and skill set, which allows the climber to move fast and efficiently on exposed rock. The technical grade for the Hornli Ridge is UIAA III which equates roughly to British V.Diff or U.S. 5.4.

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During the preparation days each guide can climb with up to 2 persons. Firstly I think enough experience is needed to climb the Matterhorn safely and enjoyably. Matterhorn is over 1000 meter long, so even though it is technically straight forward, it shouldn’t be underestimated. But if you don’t have the experience and you want to climb the mountain, the guide is an essential and adequate tool to make the adventure successfully.

It is probably the most photographed of the world’s great mountains and attracts so many climbers that it’s even more dangerous than it was before climbing became all the rage. We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access. The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley – transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance. Next we make an ascent of the Tour Ronde – this is a good varied climb, with plenty of interesting challenges.

This is the most technically challenging section of the route as, above the Gouter Hut the way ahead lies entirely on snow. The terrain up to the Vallot Reguge is mainly quite easy glacier walking whereas the impressive final sections of the ‘Bosses Ridge’ has some steeper snow slopes. The final narrow section of summit ridge is a little exposed but there is normally a good track and this provides a superb and fitting climax to reaching the summit. Much of the terrain is relatively straight forward, but not always easy to protect – so you need to be very steady on your feet, in order to move safely together on the easier sections. Sections of scrambling are punctuated by a few trickier pitches of V Diff rock climbing – so you need to be able to climb these in mountaineering boots, whilst carrying a rucsack. This final section can vary from good steps to icy terrain, so you need experience climbing in crampons and have to stay focussed all the way to the top.

In the mesmerizing realm of alpine adventure, the article titled “19 Reasons to Never Climb the Matterhorn” on Bear Grylls Gear serves as a thought-provoking ode to the formidable peak. As the Matterhorn’s majestic silhouette graces the horizon, this compilation of reasons gently beckons daring souls to pause and ponder before embarking on the ascent. Among the myriad insights that unfold, a resounding message emerges — a message to read the mountain’s silent warnings, to heed its history, and to respect the forces of nature that have shaped its story. Much like a well-worn page in a book, each reason in this article adds depth and perspective to the narrative of mountaineering, reminding us that the journey itself is as vital as the destination. So, as adventurers contemplate their next steps, this article stands as a literary guide, offering wisdom to those who choose to delve into the chapters of the Matterhorn’s enigmatic allure.