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Bontrager Trip 100 Sensor Not Working

6 min read

In which direction the battery on the fork the + up or down thank you. Let us know what you think about the Bontrager Trip 100 Cycling Computer by leaving a product rating. Want to share your experiences with this product or ask a question? Please leave a comment at the bottom of the page. Is your product defective and the manual offers no solution?

I am totally not a magnet sensor pro, so please tell me does it make any difference where i mount the magnet? In my opinion it makes difference in collecting data as nearer to hub quicker rotate. Not specific to this unit but lots of stories about power lines affecting readings. Hard to see how other functions are working correctly while speed fluctuates wildly as anything other than a defect.

GPS problems and solutions with old smartphones

A wired computer or an ANT based wireless computer should also solve your problem. With my ANT based wireless computer systems that I have used almost exclusively for the last several years, I have had no interference problems. Yes, any ANT+ Speed/Cadence sensor works with the Motoactv, as well as ANT+ Speed Only, ANT+ cadence only. Also, it works with ANT+ Power meter and ANT+ running foodpots. Honestly, I think the problem will be solved with the Wahoo RPM, which in theory can be mounted on your shoe and provide the same.

I have confirmed that I have it on correctly, per the photos above. I may have to try to find a rare earth magnet. It seems like the magnet installed in the crank band is tiny. Getting ANT+ sensors paired to the Ambit series can be a bit finicky.

Manual Bontrager Trip 100 Cycling Computer

Some analysis are over 60 pages long when printed out, with hundreds of photos! Try another brand of magnet, they’re cheap. Just google on “speed magnet”, and you will get a number of hits. I find that the Garmin one works well for me, although I did have to go through a cycle of tightening the screw a bit more. Hey, Any suggestions for keeping the speed magnet from slipping down the spoke. I’ve got it on a Trek 1.5 and it keeps slipping down to the reflector on the tire and I’d like to avoid having to reconfigure the whole setup .

I haven’t seen any issues with shifting during a year+ of riding with it. My GSC-10 came to an agreement with my soft Garmin HRM strap to both stop working at the same time. Per your suggestion in another posting, I have ordered the Polar strap to replace the Garmin. 🙂 I’ll be supporting this site; super helpful to this brand new cyclist. But why would you be using it on your seat stay?

Garmin Forerunner 955 Solar Smartwatch

This is more mileage than either the Garmin or the Boutrager mounts ever took me without needing to be adjusted. Im also not keen to see it explode in the spokes should i hit a pothole and dislodge it. If you don’t get continuity with the wheel magnet next to the sensor, try another magnet, hand-held.

When the magnet gets close enough, the switch closes, making contact between the two wires in the cable. When the magnet is not close to the “sensor”, the switch is open, so there is no connection between the two wires. If you see clear, black numbers on the screen, the battery is OK. As the battery weakens, the liquid-crystal display may go dim. When the battery fails, the display will go completely blank.

Manual

As Kerry indicates, things like nearby power lines, security systems, trucks, traffic lights controllers can also cause interference. On the flip side you might want to wait a few weeks and pickup the new Garmin sensors. These don’t require any magnets and are based purely on accelerometer . See my Edge 1000 post for a bit more details there. I took the chance I would be able to make this scheme work, and ordered it.

Now, it wasn’t because I had some unexplainable desire to replace my existing trusty little GSC-10 on my bike. Nope, I actually wanted it because it made the perfect travel ANT+ speed/cadence sensor. Essentially, anytime I wasn’t on my own bike I could just attach it in a few seconds and be off and running. A sensor made to work with one cyclecomputer may not work with another. A Bluetooth or ANT+ digital wireless sensor must be “paired” with a cyclecomputer or GPS unit to be recognized. A cyclecomputer or GPS unit may support wireless heart-rate, cadence and power sensors, not only a wheel sensor.

K-EDGE Wahoo Max XL Mount

The trick to the rubber band is slightly turning it inverted, so when you hook it on the hook, it starts to peal back and end up ‘straight’. I realize that explanation probably makes zero sense beyond my head, but it at least works in my head. I didn’t bring my Fenix2 with me on this trip, but I was pretty sure that’s odd it’s not working.

But up until now, they’ve always been a bit of a pain in the butt. Also, someone recently asked why I often place the speed sensor arm ‘upwards’ and not ‘downwards’. In the case of my Cervelo P3C, there isn’t enough clearance between the bike frame and the wheel by placing it downwards, it would rub.

Optimize every ride

If it passes this test, the wiring and magnet placement are OK. Need a manual for your Bontrager Trip 100 Cycling Computer? Below you can view and download the PDF manual for free. There are also frequently asked questions, a product rating and feedback from users to enable you to optimally use your product. If this is not the manual you want, please contact us. I started a new ride and it still isn’t doing anything.

Examine the terminals to see whether there is any corrosion. If the terminals look fuzzy, clean them with a cotton swab dipped in ammonia. If the display is still blank, it is time to give up unless you are handy with a soldering iron.

In Depth Product Analysis

If you can get the computer apart without destroying it , and get it back together, then scoring the copper pad with a pencil eraser can restore operation. Weights are based off pre-production products at time of publication. How do I remove the plastic mount from the back of the computer so it can open it to change the battery. Bottom button no longer works, after a few months. As a result, the counter can no longer be set to “o”.

The Bike Zone

Repeatedly making and breaking the connection should result in a speed reading in the computer’s display, If it doesn’t, the problem is internal to the computer. Also make sure the wheel transmitter battery is fresh and the wheel transmitter is located as close to the bike computer as possible. A weak battery, or the transmitter positioned too far away from the computer can lead to a weaker speed signal which can be more easily overwhelmed by other noise. I have no personal experience with RideTime, but what you describe sounds like a common problem of most simpler wireless computers. The speed and optional RPM transmitters on these simpler wireless computers can easily be overwhelmed by nearby electrical/radio noise. You don’t mention if the wild swings occur all the time, or only occasionally.

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