How To Set Up A Belay Device

Make sure it is a UIAA rated Single Rope and not a double rope or static line. There are some downsides to using the device over others belaying devices though too. As with any climbing equipment, it is important for climbers to understand the device’s instructions and operations in order to limit any potential issues that may arise.

Continue feeding rope through as you lower yourself down. You’ll soon be able to figure out how fast to feed the rope while staying in control. You don’t need to remove the screwgate from your belay loop when doing this; you are more likely to drop it if you do. You should stand in a position fairly close to the wall where you can take a few steps forward or backward to give slack or take in while still locked off. Don’t sit down, lie down, or face in the wrong direction.

This configuration is referred to as using the “Guide Mode” of the ATC. In this configuration, the ATC is also able to apply a self-braking force on the rope. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Typically used for rappelling and in search and rescue efforts, a figure 8 device also works for belaying. Made of metal, it has a top hole and a larger bottom hole, and contains no moving parts. The climber’s weight is always hanging directly on the belayer.

Other Belay Devices

When the climber pulls on you, you should be held safely in place by the anchor. In the indirect belay method, the belay device is secured onto the belayer’s harness. The rope runs from the climber directly to the belayer. Lead Belay Technique Give slack by feeding the rope up with your guide hand. Simultaneously, your brake hand gripping the rope will be pulled in close to the belay device.

Furthermore, the heat induced by any possible friction will not harm your hands, and therefore allow the belayer to maintain a strong grip over the rope. This friction can stress and wear down your climbing ropes. But with less heat being generated and applying pressure to the rope, the friction will not prove as damaging. This specific belaying device is used often for rappelling and caving. The rope will be against the midpoint between the two holes. The smaller hole is then clipped onto the loop of the climber harness.

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The shape of the device will also help ensure that any diameter of rope will fit with the two holes of the eight shape. Descending a canyon wall can be a thrilling and fun activity many people who actively participate in canyoneering enjoy. Some ATCs can only be used with ropes of a certain range of diameters. The compatible rope sizes will be printed on the frame as well.

I also heard that harnesses are designed to be weaker when pulled downward, but I don’t know whether this is true. In recent years, many climbing gyms around the world started requiring the use of devices with camming mechanisms known as auto-locking belay devices. The ATC belay device by Black Diamond is a highly reliable and proven rappelling gear piece. It can be used safely for rappelling and canyoneering, as long as you are mindful of humidity levels and canyon type. I’ve been using the classic ATC for recreational rappelling for quite a few years now, and I am happy to report that I have not experienced any issues.

Good technique means being able to feed out or take in slack quickly and smoothly, and keeping the right amount of slack in the rope at all times, without breaking the golden rule. Most belaying techniques involved sliding the brake hand on the rope as it is fed out or taken in, to ensure that it is always in the brake position and ready to catch a fall. Some tubular belay devices such as the ATC-XP and the ATC Guide, have teeth or grooves that increase the friction on the rope when belaying or rappelling. This feature allows for a smoother lower, more control over feeding the rope through the device when on rappel, and less effort necessary to hold a climber in place.

Anything that will keep the rope from becoming slack. To lower the climber, loosen the grip on your guide hand slightly. Slowly move your brake hand back closer to your guide hand.

Rappelling, also known as abseiling, is a technique used to descend ropes. While walking down or lowering off can be much safer, knowing how to rappel is an essential skill in every climber’s arsenal. Whichever climbing technique you use, it is crucial that the belayer stays vigilant and keeps a close eye on the climber. Do not listen to music, check your phone, or allow yourself to become distracted by the scenery or other climbers. Check to make sure all the strands of rope are lined up correctly, and pull the knot tight.

Take a bight of the rope and feed it through your belay device, clipping the rope into a screwgate carabiner, which is attached to your belay loop on the front of your harness. Always check your screwgate is done up and visually inspect your setup to check everything is as it should be. If you are belaying from below, now is also a good time to check your climbing partner has tied in properly too. The leader reaches the belay stance and builds an anchor with a master point. To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device; at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges.

Many gyms offer courses, where you can learn to top-rope belay and lead-belay under the competent supervision of gym staff in a safe environment. Belaying can be hard on your hands, particularly when lowering a climber. There are a lot of different belaying gloves to make this easier. The climber has clipped the protection, so any extra slack in the rope should be pulled in. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach the two devices to the rope, one above the other.

Lowering the climber from the top of a route also must follow the golden rule. An ATC is shaped so it pinches the rope in three places. With the brake hand in the proper position, a fall will pull the rope taut, making the ATC pinch it and preventing it from moving. To feed out rope, you simply pull more rope through the ATC with the guide hand, while still keeping your brake hand in the brake position.

Make sure you always have at least one hand on the brake strand at all times. Giving a soft catch as a belayer is a skill that takes practice. You need to give a bit more rope slack just as the climber’s weight comes onto the rope, while keeping your brake hand locked on the rope.