Single Rope Tree Climbing Rope Setup

The tree gear in our kits has been carefully selected and tested to work well together. Get started climbing with confidence knowing you have what you need, and expand it as you learn. The frog walker system is a great skill to have once you are an accomplished climber. It is a very effective and efficient way of accessing the upper canopy of tall trees easily and reducing the energy used in alternative doubled rope climbing systems.

We put this kit together with good quality gear that is still affordable. There is more comfortable and fully-featured gear out there, but this is a solid starting package at an unbeatable price for the quality. You can get started making money and upgrade your climbing kit as you develop your personal skills and tastes. I’ve played around with various different lanyard setups over the years, I First started climbing with a big thick 19mm wire core thing … Hopefully most people involved in tree work will find something useful here, be you new to the industry or a seasoned veteran. My climbing line is Yale lime light (11.7mm) works really well with the wrench, can be a little bit bouncy when working single line but otherwise a really nice rope.

Rope Walking Setup?

This system is for access only when setup with the configuration shown. Used to tie one end of a static line at the base of the tree, so an S.R.T system can be used. Arborists use special harnesses with clip in points for the tether around the tree.

Friction hitches and hitch cordage used in tree climbing are very worth getting to know. The ZK-2 kit will get you up and running and once you’ve put some time on rope with it I think you’ll like it a lot. Once the climber has put on his saddle and helmet, he attaches himself to the climbing system. Some climbers use only their arms to climb; others use either a Prussik loop or other “foot assist” method to easily push themselves up. DbRT is usually a breeze for children, who are lighter in body weight.

Utilizing The Hitch Climber

I’m developing, so this is my protection while checking out the wall, before I set an anchor. Also, I prefer to carry in as little gear as possible because my pack is already incredibly heavy. Plus, the distance to the edge of the cliff from the natural anchors is so variable depending on where I’m at, this gives me more options.

It also has the added benefit of not having to isolate a limb to set the system, so for tall conifers and dense canopies of broadleaf trees it can make life much easier with a throw line. A demonstration of setting up/configuring a stationary rope technique climbing system using the rope wrench. Showing a setup using a triple attachment pulley and a single attachment fixed side plate micro pulley. Our SRT series covers all of the fundamentals of ‘Stationary rope work positioning’, Dan breaks down the climb into segments – Base anchors, canopy tie-in points, redirects, ascending and lateral movement. In each of these segments Dan presents various options to undertake this task/technique that vary from simple options with not much equipment to very gear intensive techniques. Here, you will need a four-inch tie and a belayed rope system which will be used when climbing or walking over the four-inch bole tree.

Should include a discussion of how safety checks differ between SRT and DRT. Climber must descend in a controlled manner without excessive speed. “To be poor and be without trees, is to be the most starved human being in the world. To be poor and have trees, is to be completely rich in ways that money can never buy.” The downsides of using SRT include difficulty installing the rope, and finding appropriate anchor points for your rope may be a bit difficult. You also need to find the right anchor point, which can sometimes be a challenge.

So an alternative is ‘Stationary rope technique’ , this term explains that the rope is fixed, and still uses the acronym SRT. This can also be done from the hanging position by pulling some slack into the rope between your top and bottom ascenders and attaching the descending device between them. Push the foot ascender up until slightly more than a hand-width of rope remains between it and the descending device.

This technique should only be used when removing a tree as the spurs can damage the cells of the tree . To ascend a tree by creating a false platform by digging the spurs into the bark of the tree and leaning back on a lanyard to hold you in place. In this high quality video we describe in detail why and when you would want or need to make a step cut. We discuss the subtle changes you can make to your cut as the diameter of wood gets larger and we give you some clear and concise examples. All of this information is aimed as a guide to help you not waste time and energy making multiple cuts if you can get it right the first time.

To descend on a single rope, the ascending devices need to be changed for some type of descending device. The easiestplace to set this up is from a comfortable limb. Ideally, the limb would be just below the limb you intend to use as a descent anchor.

This video demonstrates the system ondouble rope techniquebut can be taken and setup in the same way with a rope wrench and used forsingle rope technique. The single rope technique , also called thestatic rope system, is suited for climbing more towering trees up to 300 feet high or more like spruce and firs. SRT includes anchoring the rope to a branch or at the tree base. Then, you climb the rope’s other end using a mechanical device attached to it. This device can be an ascending or descending device, attached to the rope wherein you could climb. The smaller diameter ropes range from 10 mm to 11.6 mm for traditional doubled or single rope technique.

All that’s required is to lightly grasp the modified Blake’s hitch and gently pull down. Safe descents are not fast descents — a too-rapid descent can be dangerous. Climbers often tie “safety” knots into their ropes to prevent themselves from accidentally coming down too quickly. Another protection from getting hurt during the descent is the Blake’s hitch itself, which automatically stops the descent when the climber lets go of the knot. If the rope is already anchored in the tree up high, and you don’t need to move the anchor, then I would suggest using the frog SRT system.

SRT is one of the most effective rope system setups when ascending large-diameter hardwoods, conifers, and ornamental trees. I would use a knot tied in the style of a super 8 (animatedknots.com/fig8loopd…). If you sit and dissect it, you can tie it in a “follow through” style, so the loops can be formed around the trees. Also, if you tie it like this, you can add a third loop for your third tree. I have never seen a knot tied like this before, so use at your discretion.

Tie yourself to the trunk of the tree using your safety line. The DRT involves draping your rope over a branch, then using both ends of your rope in a climbing knot series. This system lets you ascend and descend a tree without difficulty. This system safely holds you in place when you aren’t moving.